ZAREZAN 2005

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Saint Tryphon is worshipped as the guardian of vineyards and this festival is in his honour. It is observed not only by vine-growers, but also by market-gardeners and tavern-keepers. Early in the morning the mistress of the house kneads some bread - unleavened or leavened. She also cooks a barnyard hen, which - following the tradition - is stuffed with rice or grouts. The hen is stewed in one piece and then roasted on a sachak (a kind of shallow copper pan). The loaf of bread, the hen and a wooden vessel (buklitza) full of wine are put in a new woollen bag. With such bags over their shoulders the men go to the vineyards. They make the sign of the cross, take the pruning-knives and cut, each one of them, three sticks from three main stems. Afterwards they make the sign of the cross again and pour the wine they have brought over the vines. This ritual is called 'trimming'. Following this ceremony, they single out 'the king of vineyards'. Only then the general feast begins. 'The king' is crowned with a wreath of vine sticks and decorated by another garland - across his shoulders. He is seated on a cart. The vine-growers draw the cart and, accompanied by the sounds of bagpipes, rebecks and a drum, make their way to the village or town. When arriving there, they stop in front of each house. The respective hostess brings out wine in a white caldron, offers it first to the king to drink and then treats the people of his suite. The wine left in the caldron is thrown over the king, pronouncing at the same time a blessing: "May we have a good harvest! May it overflow thresholds!" The king answers this blessing with: "Amen". When arriving at his own house, the king changes his clothes and, still wearing the wreaths on his head and over his shoulders, sits at a long table to meet people from the whole village. That is why, as a rule, a well-to-do man is chosen to be the king of this festival. The following two days, known as 'trifuntsi' in the folklore, are venerated for protection from wolves. Women do not cut with scissors in order to prevent wolves' mouths from opening, do not knit, do not sew. They make a ritual bread and after serving it to their neighbours, they put morsels of it in the fodder they give to the animals - to protect both cattle and people from wolves.

As for the feast table, on the day of Tryphon Zarezan it should be prepared with the housewife's special attention. As early as the grey of morning she gets up in order to make an unleavened loaf of bread. For this purpose only a kilo of flour and one spoonful of salt are needed. The flour is sifted - to have only the finest and purest of it. Then it should be evenly salted and kneaded into dough by adding two tea cupfuls of lukewarm water. The dough is kneaded until bubbles begin to show up in it. Then a loaf is shaped and baked in a previously heated oven. When the bread gets ready, cover it with a cotton cloth to prevent its crust from drying.